We don't accept payment from brands, affiliate relationships don't influence scores, and no brand is told their review is coming before we publish it. This guide explains our methodology so you can decide whether to trust our conclusions, and so you can apply the same thinking to reviews from anyone else.
The problem with brand reviews
The incentives in sustainable fashion media are almost entirely misaligned with honest assessment.
The majority of sustainable fashion content online is funded by the brands it covers, either directly through sponsored posts and partnerships, or indirectly through affiliate commissions that increase when readers buy. This doesn't make the information wrong, but it creates systematic pressure to be generous in assessments and to cover brands that pay rather than brands that deserve coverage.
The second problem is methodology. Many brand scoring systems — including well-known ones like Good On You — use self-reported data, meaning brands fill in forms about their own practices. Self-reporting introduces obvious bias and allows brands to claim practices that aren't verified. Some brands score highly primarily because they've invested in the paperwork for certifications, not because their actual environmental or labour impact is low.
The third problem is that brand-level assessment misses supply chain complexity. A brand can have excellent headquarters practices, use certified organic cotton, and still work with factories that violate labour standards for specific product lines. The disconnect between brand story and supply chain reality is where most greenwashing happens.
What we actually measure
Five areas. Each one weighted differently depending on what the brand sells and how it operates.
What the clothes are made of, where fibres are sourced, and how far back in the supply chain the brand can trace its materials. Third-party certified is weighted over self-reported.
Factory conditions, wages relative to living wage benchmarks in producing countries, whether the brand publishes a supplier list, and what audit or certification covers labour standards.
Carbon emissions disclosure and reduction targets, water use, chemical management, packaging, and what happens to unsold stock. Science-Based Targets or equivalent carries significant weight.
Does the brand publish its supplier list? Does it disclose material compositions? Does its marketing language match what certifications actually cover? Transparency is a proxy for accountability.
How long do the products last, and does the brand support that? Repair programmes, quality guarantees, and resale initiatives all count here. A sustainable product that lasts ten years beats a certified one that lasts two.
Vague sustainability language without evidence, fast fashion volume with sustainability branding, significant greenwashing history, or legal action over environmental claims. These can override positive scores elsewhere.
How we score
A number out of ten with a plain-language verdict. The number is a shortcut. Read the verdict.
Each brand receives a score from 1 to 10 across the five criteria above, weighted based on the brand's category and scale. The overall score is a weighted average. We don't hide the methodology: every review publishes the breakdown by category so you can see where a brand performs well and where it doesn't.
Scores above 7 indicate brands that are doing the work across most or all criteria with third-party verification. Scores of 5 to 7 indicate genuine effort in some areas but meaningful gaps or unverified claims in others. Scores below 5 indicate brands where sustainability marketing outpaces practice, or where critical information is unavailable.
We update scores when brands publish new information, gain or lose certifications, or when investigative reporting reveals practices inconsistent with their claims. Scores carry a date stamp so you know when we last reviewed them.
What our scores don't capture
Knowing the limits of any scoring system is as important as knowing the scores.
Supply chain complexity means we cannot independently verify every claim. We note where we rely on self-reported data versus third-party audits versus investigative journalism. A brand that has been independently audited and a brand that has good-looking self-reported data can look similar from the outside when they shouldn't.
Geographic variation is real. A brand's factory in one country may have excellent conditions while another in the same brand's supply chain does not. Global scores flatten these differences. Where we have country or facility-specific information we include it; mostly we don't.
We don't assess product quality directly. A brand can have excellent sustainability credentials and make products that fall apart. We note quality where it's consistently documented in independent reviews, but our scores are not quality ratings.
How to spot greenwashing
The same patterns appear again and again. Once you know them, you can't unsee them.
"Eco-conscious," "sustainable materials," "responsible sourcing." These phrases have no legal definition and require no evidence. Treat them as marketing until specifics are provided.
"Made with 20% recycled fibres." This means 80% isn't. Context matters: 20% recycled in a mass-market brand making millions of units is still millions of units of virgin synthetic fibre.
A fast fashion brand releases a small "conscious" or "eco" collection with better materials. This is PR, not a business model change. The other 98% of their output is unchanged.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 means the fabric is free of harmful chemicals. It says nothing about labour conditions, carbon emissions, or water use. Single certifications presented as comprehensive are always misleading.
How to read any brand review
Four questions that cut through almost any brand marketing or review.
First: who wrote it and do they have a commercial relationship with the brand? Affiliate links, sponsored content disclosures, or brand partnerships don't automatically invalidate the review but they change how you should read it.
Second: what evidence supports the claims? "Committed to sustainability" needs to point to something specific — a certification, a published target, a third-party audit. Claims without evidence are marketing.
Third: what does the reviewer not address? A review that covers materials but skips labour, or covers certifications but skips volume and growth, is probably missing the parts of the story that don't support a positive conclusion.
Fourth: when was it written? Brands change. A glowing review from 2021 of a brand that has since scaled aggressively, lost certifications, or faced labour investigations is now misleading even if it was accurate when written. Always check the date.